Home › Mesh Guide
Choosing screen mesh on the Lake Monroe side of Sanford
Chironomid midges, no-see-ums, oak pollen and the airflow you give up to keep them out.
On the Lake Monroe waterfront in Sanford, standard 18×14 fiberglass mesh is usually the wrong specification. Chironomid midges — the non-biting “blind mosquitoes” that swarm off the lake from roughly April through November — pack a coarse weave solid with dead insect bodies, blocking airflow and holding moisture against the screen. A 20×20 or finer weave is the fix, and it costs you some airflow.
The midge problem is on the public record
This is not a sales story. In May 2019 the City of Sanford was spraying for midges three to four times a week and had paid roughly $95,000 for contracted lake larvicide treatment. Residents at the downtown marina described boats caked black with dead midges. The insects invade hot, wet Florida areas from roughly April through November, and Sanford sits on the south shore of Lake Monroe at the navigable head of the St. Johns River.
Midges do not bite. That is exactly why homeowners underrate them: the complaint is not itching, it is a screen that has stopped breathing. Dead bodies wedged into the weave cut airflow through the cage, trap humidity against the mesh and the frame, and accelerate the failure of both the screen and the fasteners holding it.
No-see-ums are a different insect and a different problem
Biting midges — no-see-ums — are most active March through October, especially after spring rains. Standard 18×14 and 16-mesh screen does not stop them. They pass straight through. The recommended gauge for excluding them is 20×20 no-see-um mesh or finer.
So on the water-adjacent side of Sanford there are two independent arguments pointing at the same finer weave: chironomid midges clogging it from outside, and no-see-ums walking through it. One mesh change answers both.
What the numbers mean
Mesh is described by strands per inch in each direction. 18×14 means eighteen strands per inch one way and fourteen the other. 20×20 means twenty each way — more strands, smaller openings, and a visibly finer weave. Every step finer trades airflow and view for exclusion, and holds more surface debris. There is no free upgrade.
| Mesh | Stops | Trade-off | Where in Sanford |
|---|---|---|---|
| 18×14 fiberglass (standard) | Mosquitoes, flies, leaves and general debris | Best airflow and clearest view. Does not stop no-see-ums; clogs with midge bodies near the water. | Roof panels almost everywhere, and full cages on the drier inland side of town. |
| 20×20 no-see-um | No-see-ums and much finer insect traffic | Noticeably reduced airflow, slightly darker view, holds more pollen on the surface. | Water-facing walls: Preserve at Lake Monroe, the riverfront blocks, downtown, the Lake Jesup fringe, Sylvan Lake Reserve. |
| Pet-resistant polyester | Claws and shoulders — a durability upgrade, not an insect one | Heavier, lower airflow, higher cost per square foot. Openings are not finer. | Lower panels and the door surround. Rarely worth it on roof panels. |
| Solar / privacy screen | Heat, glare and sightlines | Significant visibility loss. Chosen for sun control, not insects. | West and south-west facing walls where afternoon sun makes the deck unusable. |
Specify mesh wall by wall, not cage by cage
The commonest mistake in this market is picking one mesh for the whole enclosure. On a typical Sanford pool cage the roof panels, the water-facing wall, the lower panels and the door surround are doing four different jobs.
- Roof panels — keep standard 18×14 unless there is a specific reason not to. This is where you need airflow most, insects arrive least, and debris load is highest.
- Water-facing wall — 20×20 if you are on Lake Monroe, the St. Johns, Sylvan Lake or the Lake Jesup side.
- Lower panels and door surround — pet-resistant if there are animals in the house, because this is the only place they contact the screen.
- West and south-west walls — solar mesh only if afternoon heat is the actual complaint, and only where losing the view is acceptable.
Mixing weaves does not cost extra in labour during a full rescreen. It only costs extra if you decide to change one wall two years later.
Which side of Sanford you are on
Sanford covers 27.18 square miles, of which 3.60 square miles is water — over 13% of the municipal area. That is the physical reason insect and humidity pressure runs higher here than in the drier inland Seminole cities, and it is why the mesh recommendation is not uniform across the city.
- Water-adjacent north and east — Preserve at Lake Monroe sits directly across US 17-92 from the lake and is the most exposed tract subdivision in the city. The downtown and riverfront blocks and the Lake Jesup fringe are in the same category. Finer mesh on water-facing walls is a straightforward call.
- West of I-4, wooded — Retreat at Wekiva backs the Wekiva River corridor and Preserve at Astor Farms sits in the same wooded belt. Here the load is leaves and limbs on the cage roof, not insects: abrasion, weight and standing debris that holds moisture. Mesh gauge matters less than roof-panel condition and gutter clearance.
- East side, airport corridor — Kensington Reserve and Wyndham Preserve are newer builds off East Lake Mary Blvd with current-generation frames. Most work here is mesh and doors rather than structure.
- Older inland stock — Sunland Estates (1958–1970) and the historic core have older fastener systems and wood-framed porches. The mesh conversation comes second to whether the structure will hold spline tension.
Pollen, pressure washing, and how good mesh gets destroyed
Central Florida tree pollen peaks from late January through May. Live oak pollen begins in late February and coats outdoor surfaces in yellow-green dust through April, with oak running into summer and pine from December through May. Grass pollen runs April to October and ragweed from August into early December. In practice a Sanford cage is collecting something most of the year.
Pollen load is a leading reason Sanford homeowners pressure-wash their cages, and pressure-washing is a leading cause of tearing aged mesh out of its spline. Fiberglass mesh that has spent five years in Florida sun has lost flexibility; a pressure washer finds every weak point in one pass. Low pressure, a soft brush and a mild detergent, working along the weave, is the method that does not cost you a rescreen.
When the mesh is telling you it is finished
- Mesh at a panel corner tears under light thumb pressure.
- The weave has gone chalky or brittle and no longer springs back when pushed.
- Dead insect and pollen loading no longer washes out at low pressure.
- Spline is lifting out of the groove, or a panel drums and flaps in wind.
- More than roughly a third of the panels show any of the above — at that point a full rescreen usually beats repeated patch visits.
Common questions
What type of screen mesh is best for Florida?
There is no single best mesh — there is a best mesh for a given wall of a given cage. Standard 18x14 fiberglass is the default because it balances airflow, visibility and price. Finer 20x20 no-see-um mesh stops smaller insects at the cost of airflow and some view. Pet-resistant polyester takes claws. Solar mesh cuts heat and glare and cuts visibility with it.
On the Lake Monroe side of Sanford the calculation is not the statewide one. Chironomid midges and biting no-see-ums both pass through or pack a standard weave, so the finer mesh earns its airflow penalty on the water-facing walls specifically — and standard 18x14 is usually still the right choice on the roof panels of the same cage.
What is the difference between 18x14 and 20x20 mesh?
The numbers are strands per inch: 18 by 14 in one direction and the other, versus 20 by 20. A 20x20 weave has more strands and smaller openings, which is why it is sold as no-see-um mesh. Standard 18x14 and 16-mesh screen does not stop no-see-ums; 20x20 or finer is the recommended gauge.
The trade is real and worth stating plainly. Smaller openings mean less airflow through the cage, a slightly darker view out, and a weave that catches and holds more pollen and insect debris on its surface — which is exactly why the finer mesh needs gentler and more regular cleaning, not less.
Can you pressure wash a pool screen?
Not at pressure-washer pressure, and this is the single most common way Sanford homeowners destroy otherwise serviceable mesh. Central Florida tree pollen peaks from late January through May, with live oak coating everything yellow-green from late February into April, and the urge to blast it off is what tears aged screen out of its spline.
Mesh and spline are cleaned with low pressure, a soft brush and a mild detergent, working with the weave rather than across it. Aged fiberglass mesh has already lost flexibility to UV; a pressure washer finds every weak point at once. If the cage is due for a rescreen anyway, cleaning first is wasted effort — and the same dead-midge and pollen loading that makes people want to pressure wash is itself a signal the mesh is at end of life.
Tell us your street and we will tell you the weave
Water-facing, wooded, or inland — the right mesh in Sanford is decided by where the cage is, not by what is on the van.
Phone: (689) 666-9380 · Email: quotes@sanfordrescreening.com